An Oasis after Mud and Pork Sausage Crisis in Langkawi
01-03-10
“Man had always assumed that he was more intelligent than dolphins because he had achieved so much—the wheel, New York, wars and so on—whilst all the dolphins had ever done was muck about in the water having a good time. But conversely, the dolphins had always believed that they were far more intelligent than man—for precisely the same reasons.”
Rebak Resort and Marina. An oasis!
Ok, I lied. It was just a little white lie, I admit, but I feel the need to set the record straight.
You see, Irenka has left me. Well, temporarily. I’m now alone on the boat with our 12-year-old son, Yewan, while she is in Kuala Lumpur with Darry, our 15-year-old, so he could sit his IGCSE exams.
That left Yewan and me anchored off Kuah, the main town in Langkawi, which, if I’m being honest, isn’t the most exciting place to spend six weeks. According to TripAdvisor, the top three things to do in Kuah are:
Visit a forest (which is, conveniently, out of town).
Visit a sanctuary for injured and traumatised dogs and cats.
Visit a temple... (also out of town).
Not the most exciting town or cleanest water in which to anchor for six weeks. Kuah, Langkawi, Malaysia.
Wicks Manor Prime Pork Sausages.. and River Muck
The highlight of our stay was stumbling upon ‘Lavish,’ an expat shop selling frozen British Wicks Manor prime pork sausages—a rare find in a Muslim country 10,000km from the UK. Despite the hefty price, we stocked up for a month. However, by the time we returned to the dinghy, it was low tide, and the dinghy was firmly stuck in the mud. After fighting the thick, foul-smelling river muck for over an hour, we finally made it to open water and back to the boat, covered in filth and holding a month’s supply of completely defrosted sausages.
The following week was a culinary tour of British classics: bangers and mash, toad in the hole (recipe available on our Patreon page!), sausage butties, and sausage stew. But even I, a staunch defender of British comfort food, admit that man (and boy) cannot live on sausages alone, especially for every meal.
Our most exciting find in SE Asia. British Prime Pork Sausages from the shop, Lavish! Kuah, Langkawi, Malaysia
Cabin Fever and Hull Diving
With no siblings or other kids to interact with, Yewan started climbing the cabin walls. Schooling dragged on, taking all day, which meant I couldn’t focus on boat work, blogging, or editing.
The tipping point came when I had to dive under the boat to inspect the prop seal, which had been fouled the week before. I’d been putting it off because the water near Kuah was so murky and foul-smelling, but when the toilet outlet became clogged, I had to go for a dip. It was either that or go full Bear Grylls with a bucket.
I had to go for a dip or it was go full Bear Grylls with a bucket. Kuah, Langkawi, Malaysia
So, into the water I popped and sliced my hands on barnacles, fumbling my way to the prop and outlet. I also ended up with a painful ear infection, which I’ve only just managed to get under control. But hey, at least the toilet worked. The prop seal, not so much.
The Curse of Unforecast Storm.. and Jet Skis
We moved to another anchorage further from town, off the island of Pulau Tepor, only to be hit by an unforecasted storm. The swell slapped us broadside all night due to a strange current between the islands. As we unexpectedly found ourselves on a lee shore, I stayed on anchor watch all night.
When morning came, so did the jet skis from the local resort. What is it about an anchored sailboat that screams “race track” to jet skiers?
What is it about an anchored sailboat that screams “race track” to jet skiers? Pulau Tepor, Langkawi, Malaysia
That’s when I threw in the towel. Enough was enough.
A Marina Oasis
Out of desperation, I contacted the yard manager at Rebak Marina a few miles away, knowing full well it was jam-packed. But after some pleading, the manager—bless him—found us a spot. I could have kissed him.
By 10 AM, we were tied to a pontoon. Not counting boatyards, I honestly can’t remember the last time we stayed in a proper marina for any length of time, aside from checking in or out of a country. I think the last time was Opua in New Zealand over a year ago, when we were towed in with a broken coupling. Yewan bolted the second we docked, skateboard in hand, and disappeared to find his tribe of feral boat kids. I haven’t seen him much since, and honestly, as much as I love the little fella, I’m fine with that.
What is it about an anchored sailboat that screams “race track” to jet skiers? Pulau Tepor, Langkawi, Malaysia
An Embarrassment of Riches
Meanwhile, I stood there with what seemed like an embarrassment of riches at my disposal. Should I do the laundry? Take a long shower? Use a proper flush toilet that doesn’t clog after the first pump? Maybe I could stroll to the shop, hit the beach bar, or splash around in the pool. It was like being a kid in a sweet shop.
I was so giddy, I felt like I did in New Zealand after crossing the Pacific. I ate so much cheese, chocolate, and pie in that first week that I ended up giving myself constipation!
So what did I do? I cleaned out the cupboards and baked focaccia with some out-of-date flour I found that was beginning to be settled by weevils. Yes, I was sleep-deprived and mildly delirious, but it was the best damn bread I’ve ever tasted.
After ‘confessing’ that I wasn’t a fan of marinas, have I finally succumbed?
Have I finally become a Marina Junkie?
Now, about that lie I mentioned earlier. In recent posts, I ‘confessed’ that I wasn’t a fan of marinas, even going so far as to refer to folk who frequent them as ‘marina junkies’ who’ve forgotten the purpose of their anchor. “Stay too long,” I said with scornful confidence, “and you’ll find yourself surrounded by cruisers suffering from dock rot, too afraid to leave.” And I believed it.
But after this episode, I’m having second thoughts.
Yoga class - one of the many activities. Are savvy sailors of a certain age making these types of marinas their semi-permanent home?
Many marinas are undoubtedly filled with boats that haven’t moved in a long time (pot plants and air conditioning units on hatches are a dead giveaway!). But perhaps it’s a savvy and conscious decision for sailors of a certain age to make a marina their semi-permanent home.
Rebak Marina: The Hotel California of Cruisers
There’s a joke among cruisers that some marinas are like Hotel California: you can check out any time you like, but you can never leave! Rebak Marina is one such place. Well, maybe it’s less about “can never leave” and more about “why would you want to?” Even the Eagles might struggle to work that lyric into their old classic!
You can check out any time you like, but why would you want to? Rebak Marina Resort, Langkawi, Malaysia.
Put Pensioners on Boats!
Joking aside, if you’ve been following British politics (and why wouldn’t you? It’s so much fun!), the newly elected government has just made some controversial changes to the winter fuel allowance for pensioners. Stay with me on this!
Some quick maths and a bit of Google research tell me that a UK State Pensioner on means-tested benefits receives around £15,500 per year (approximately €18,600 or US$20,100), not including housing benefits or other payments. Meanwhile, Rebak Marina—with its luxury facilities, gym, yoga classes, and chauffeur-driven golf buggies (I’m not kidding!)—charges roughly half of that for a 50+ foot mooring. Even less for smaller berths.
Chauffeur-driven golf buggies to get you around the resort. Rebak Marina, Langkawi. Malaysia.
There’s a free, regular ferry to Langkawi’s mainland, where you can take a 15 minute £3 taxi ride to the international airport or nearest duty-free grocery store, where prices are extremely reasonable (except for pork sausages!). Some stores even deliver direct to the ferry. Malaysia also has a thriving medical tourism industry, claiming to be a world leader in fertility treatments and cancer care. You see where I’m going with this?
Happy Hour, Happy Life, Happy Wife.
So, I take back what I said in my previous posts. What started out as an emergency bolt hole turned into an unexpected reminder that marinas can offer a much-needed respite from time to time, especially after our months of rough living while cruising through Indonesia and Malaysia. Sometimes you need a place that offers a bit of stability and a touch of luxury. And for some, maybe that occasional respite becomes a semi-permanent home. And why not?
Besides, the bill doesn’t come in until the end of the month, so I still have a few days before Irenka finds out I’ve blown next month’s budget. Until then, you’ll have to excuse me. Happy hour at the beach bar starts at 5 PM, and I still need to squeeze in a quick workout at the gym, take a long shower, collect my clean shirt from the laundry, and hail a golf buggy!
Happy hour at the beach bar starts at 5 PM - Cheers! Rebak Resort Marina, Langkawi, Malaysia.
Oh yes, and get that prop seal seen to.. tomorrow maybe.
Cheers!
